Museo Casa Montejo
The south side of Plaza Mayor is dominated by Casa Montejo, one of the finest examples of Spanish colonial architecture in Mexico. Built in 1549 as the residence of the wealthy Montejo family, who owned the building until 1978, the palace's magnificent Plateresque façade once extended along the whole of the south side of the square (although somewhat smaller today, it remains impressive). Inside, its large and handsome rooms house Museo Casa Montejo, an interesting museum set around two courtyards, which is furnished with antique pieces imported from Europe. Of particular interest is the coat of arms of the Montejo family, as well as the stone sculptures of a conquistador standing with one foot on the bowed head of a conquered Maya. If fine old architecture is of interest, be sure to include Quinta Montes Molina on your itinerary. This attractive colonial mansion includes a superb collection of European furniture along with a pleasant garden.
The Governor's Palace and Museo Fernando García Ponce
A must-visit in Mérida is the sumptuous Government Palace (Palacio de Gobierno). Built in 1892 and decorated with 31 interesting murals painted by the Campeche artist Fernando Castro Pacheco between 1971-74, the building and its beautiful central courtyard is considered something of a masterpiece. In addition to its fine murals, it also houses Museo Fernando García Ponce, a museum with a rich collection of paintings by other leading Mexican artists, the best of which can be seen in the History Room. They cover topics from the Spanish invasion and their often harsh treatment of the Maya. After enjoying these historically significant murals, spend a little time exploring this splendid old building, in particular the balcony for its fine views over the cathedral and Plaza Mayor.
The Ancient Ruins of Uxmal
The famous Maya site of Uxmal makes an easy day trip from Mérida. Located just 80 kilometers south of the city, it's widely considered to be one of the most beautiful Pre-Columbian sites in Mexico. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, Uxmal dates back to the sixth century and, in contrast to Chichén Itzá, shows little Toltec influences. In addition to the many fine examples of the dominating Puuc styles - seen in the thin limestone cladding in square or lattice patterns on top of smooth walls - are its many panels of Chac masks (the rain god), with their long curved noses and snakes with stiff bodies. Particular buildings of note are the Pyramid of the Soothsayer, at 35 meters the highest building in Uxmal and notable for its oval base; and Temple I, the oldest building and of interest for its having a date chiseled into a door lintel revealing the building's age (it was built in AD 569), as well as the famous sculpture known as the Queen of Uxmal on its façade. There's also an on-site museum, which houses the four stone heads of the rain-god Chac and hieroglyphic panels. Also worth seeing, and easy to include with a visit to Uxmal as it's located just a few minutes' drive outside the city center, the ancient site of Dzibilchaltún is popular for its cenote, a great place for a refreshing swim after a day of exploration.
Historic Plaza Mayor (Plaza Grande)
Plaza Mayor - also known as Plaza de la Independencia, or Plaza Grande - is both the commercial and cultural hub of Mérida, and is a good place to start a walking tour of the old city center. In addition to being surrounded by some of Mérida's most important buildings, it's also a very pleasant space to simply hang out thanks to its shady palm trees, beautiful flower gardens, and fountains. Covering an entire city block, it's as popular among locals as it is tourists due to its regular markets, where vendors sell everything from food to crafts and souvenirs. It's also lined with a number of good restaurants offering traditional Mexican fare.
Also of interest is the Municipal Market, just a short walk south of Plaza Mayor and worth visiting for its many products made from locally produced sisal, such as hammocks and panama hats, huipiles (Mayan-style dresses with brightly colored embroidery around the neck), and guayabera shirts for men - all of them easy to take home with you. A must for Latin dance enthusiasts is the weekly Yucatecan Serenade, a fun outdoor dance event accompanied by live music, which has been a fixture of nearby Park Sta Lucia since 1965.
Mérida Cathedral
On the east side of the Plaza Mayor, occupying the site of an earlier Maya temple, stands Mérida Cathedral. Built between 1561 and 1598, this impressive building is the largest church in Yucatán. Despite its rather plain façade, the building's interior boasts a rich décor, notable for its many references to the town's Mayan and colonial histories. One of the first you'll see is a painting above a doorway of the Maya ruler, Titul-Kiú, shown visiting conquistador Francisco Montejo in Tihó. Other notable features include the Chapel of the Christ of the Blisters (Capilla del Cristo de las Ampollas), with its 16th-century Indian wood carvings, famous for the blisters left after the wood was charred during a fire. Part of the cathedral since 1645, the relics here are the subject of special celebrations held each October. (Visitors are welcome to attend regular mass.)
Parque Cepeda Peraza and the Church of Jesús
In the picturesque Parque Cepeda Peraza (or Parque Hidalgo) stands the quaint Church of Jesús, or the Church of the Third Order (Iglesia de la Tercera Orden), a favorite spot for weddings. After enjoying the park and the church's superb 17th-century exterior - it was built as part of a convent that later served as a Jesuit seminary - be sure to pop inside for a look at the fine high altar with its exquisite altarpiece of carved and gilded wood made in the Plateresque style, a tradition common to communities with talented silversmiths. Afterwards, take a ride on one of the fun "calesas," horse-drawn coaches in Parque Cepeda Peraza, which will take you past some of the town's most interesting colonial architecture.
The Natural History Museum and Palacio Canton
Mérida's superb Natural History Museum (Museo de Arqueología e Historía) lies in the beautifully restored former government building known as the Palacio Cantón. The collection in this imposing 19th-century building consists mostly of material associated with the Maya civilization's heyday, although other advanced cultures from pre-Columbian Mexico are also well represented. Collection highlights are the sacrificial gifts retrieved from the cenotes at Chichén Itzá, as well as reproductions of the sketches of the Maya sites drawn by archeologist Frederick Catherwood and photographs taken by Teobert Maler at the turn of the century.
